The ancient Balinese village in the eastern part of the island – Tenganan village – is a popular tourist destination for those who love to explore local culture and immerse themselves in the local community.
If you’re curious to see traditional houses and learn some history of Balinese kingdoms but are not yet ready for tourist crowds at Penglipuran village, this guide will help you plan your visit to the Tenganan Pegringsingan village and discover some of the oldest Bali inhabitants.
Tenganan Pegringsingan Village
Tenganan Pegringsingan village takes its name from its location. Spread in the middle of 3 hills Kangin Hill (east), Kaut Hill (west) and Kaja Hill (north), it got the name middle – Ngetengahang, shortened today to simply Tenganan.
The Tenganan village is famous today for its village layout and unique houses. This hidden gem is named after one of the most significant traditional crafts made here – double ikat geringsing cloth.
Before the 70s this village was only visited by anthropologists. It was one of the most isolated communities in Indonesia.
Where Is Tenganan Village?
The Tenganan Pegringsingan village is located in a homonymous district of Bali – Tenganan, in Karangasem Regency.
It is not too far from Candidasa – a peaceful beachfront area with a few resorts and cafes where tourists often escape from busy Canggu.
Address: GHF8+CGG, Unnamed Road, Tenganan, Kec. Manggis, Kabupaten Karangasem, Bali 80871, Indonesia
How To Get To Tenganan Village?
Getting to Tenganan village from the airport or Canggu will take a few hours and the ride is best enjoyed in the car.
You can either rent a car for a day from a local rental or through a taxi app, get a taxi, or hire a private driver.
The latter is better, as you may have difficulty ordering a cab back home from the village. There aren’t many taxi drivers stationed there but a private driver will wait for you.
If driving your own car, you will need to turn inland from the main road, before the Candidasa beach and head up the street into the village. The parking is spacious and the security may request a small fee (under 0.5 AUD).
Note, that no vehicles are allowed inside the village (which is partly why it is so quiet).
Is There An Entrance Fee At Tenganan Village?
There is no entrance fee at Tenganan Village, however, you need to make a donation.
Once you paid the donation, you will be appointed a local guide. You can, of course, visit the village with any other tour guides as a part of your East Bali day trip.
Even though it is a popular tourist destination, there are usually no crowds.
Tenganan Ancient Village: Brief History And Myths
The Tenganan Pegringsingan village has many legends and myths surrounding its history. Here are 4 most popular versions:
Once upon a time, the Mayadenawa king ruled the Belalu kingdom. For some reason, he forbade Peneges people to pray and visit Besakih Temple (the main temple on Mt Agung), which deeply upset the gods. One of the gods, Bhatara Indra, came to the human world, defeated the king and let people back to the temple.
To celebrate, the villagers were supposed to sacrifice a white-haired horse named Onceswara but the horse somehow disappeared. Locals from the Peneges family launched two search parties in the eastern area of Bali to find it.
One group came empty-handed but found a spot to build a new village, and the second group found the horse dead. Despite the fact, that the villagers weren’t able to do the ceremony for the gods, Indra allowed them to build a settlement.
A different legend revolves around 11th century king Udayana who lost his magical horse Uccaisrawa and sent Peneges men to search for it. To reward the people, the king granted them a piece of land for settlement.
There is a myth explaining that Indra simply ordered men to settle here and tasked them with maintaining the purity (in all shapes and forms) of this territory.
Another legend says that the Peneges men cut the dead horse into pieces and those were passed down through generations as relics the god Indra turned into stones. They symbolized the domination and the territory of the village.
To this day, there are 4 stones worshipped in the village:
Kakidukun, shaped like a phallus of a horse (for fertility)
Taikik (for prosperity)
Penimbalan (for the initiation ceremony called Teruna Nyoman)
Batu Jaran, the place of death of the horse (for commemoration of the village history)
Tenganan Pegringsingan Village Layout
Linear cobblestone streets are lined with thatched-roof houses and the whole village is surrounded by hilly landscapes, terraces rice paddies, and the forest as the locals are not allowed to cut trees in this ancient village.
In total, there are six rays or six rows of the streets. The village is also split into two by a river: west of the river is Tenganan Dauh Tukad and east of the river is what we know as Tenganan Pegringsingan Village.
The houses in Tenganan Pegringsingan Village are built from North to South with courtyard doors opening to the South. The entrance to each house is narrow, enough for just 1 person.
The well-structured and maintained layout of this village goes in line with the Tri Hita Karana concept – a belief that every human being should live in harmony with God, other humans, and the environment.
The house compound itself is very different from a traditional Balinese house, it is divided in 9 parts and 4 main buildings based on the Sanga Mandala concept of architecture:
Bale Buga for ceremonies, near the road.
Central Bale with two rooms for death rituals and newborns.
Bale Meten for daily use.
Paon or Kitchen, with bathroom attached on the south side.
Bali Aga People – Pre-Hindu Balinese
Bali Aga actually simply means Original Balinese – people who lived in Bali before the whole Hindu-Javanese migration happened. They are direct descendants of Pegeng people from the pre-Majapahit Kingdom.
To preserve the culture and the population, young people from the village are only allowed to marry Bali Aga, otherwise, they are not allowed to live in this village.
This village is one of the very few remaining villages where the lifestyle, craft, and traditional ceremonies are passed down through generations and remain unchanged.
What To Do At Tenganan Village?
The experience at Tenganan village is perfect for tourists who love culture and serenity. It is also a family-friendly activity so bring your kids along.
Wandering its streets is like being in a living museum of Balinese life – it is very different from other villages you will see in the south of Bali.
Explore The Tenganan Pegringsingan Village
During your visit, you will learn about the original traditions of the villagers and their daily lives and will have the chance to observe local craftsmanship.
Many local residents will be happy to answer your questions, tell you stories and invite you to see the inside of their houses.
You may even see the old practice of dyeing roosters or hear Gamelan selunding music (rare metallophone ensemble music).
The northern part of the village: visit the Pura Paseh temple, Kakidukun, Taikik, and Batu Jaran stones.
The southern end of the village: the Main Village gate with two small temples, Long Balé Agung – an open-air building for communal gatherings where administrative decisions were made, Kul Kul (drum tower) that starts every day with 21 drum beats.
Centre of the village: communal pavilions used for ceremonial gatherings and informal meetings of local residents.
The whole village is also a perfect spot for a photoshoot.
Marvel At Local Crafts
Observe the making of double ikat textiles (geringsing cloth) – the iconic textile tradition of the village that is believed to encapsulate magical qualities.
The word Geringsing literally means repel sickness and dangers. The skill is believed to be granted to this village by the god Indra, and the star motifs actually symbolize the divine realm of the gods.
Handwoven gringsing fabric is a part of the life passage rites of every Bali Aga person – they receive their own very first geringsing during the hair-cutting ritual, later in life the gringsing is used for the tooth-filing ritual, during the wedding ceremony, as well as to cover the dead body before cremation.
Apart from textiles, the villagers excel at different crafts: artful lontar (palm leaf) etchings and calendars, basket weaving and woven bamboo art, palm leaves paintings and calligraphy.
You can buy souvenirs. Haggling is normal, however, keep in mind that double ikat textiles may take up to 5 years of manual work.
Buy organic honey. The locals sell rare black honey harvested from stingless bees.
Attend A Ceremony
You may be able to attend religious ceremonies or performances.
One such ritual is “Mekare-kare” or “Perang Pandan” (Pandan War) – a coming-of-age ritual that consists of a friendly fight between young male warriors who use thorny pandan leaves as a weapon and rattan shield. This ceremony is held every June.
Another fun sight is the Swing ritual. The young girls have their own coming-of-age tradition. They wear traditional outfits and swing on a big wooden swing helped by 2 people. The swing movement symbolizes the life that carries on.
Where To Stay And Eat At Tenganan Village?
You basically have two choices: stay in one of the village homestays or head back to the Candidasa beach area and stay in one of the beachfront hotels.
You can try local food right in the village, as they have some unique snacks and drinks, like tamarind drink, for example. Western-style food is available in many cafes and restaurants in Candidasa (a mere 3-5 km from the village).
Please, note that public toilets are available, but not free.
Final Thoughts On Tenganan Village
If you want to see a different side of Bali – rich ancient culture, preserved Balinese architecture and the way Bali Aga people have lived for centuries – add Tenganan pegringsingan village to your visit.
We guarantee you won’t regret it and it will be one of the highlights of your travels.
If you’re planning to visit make sure to contact a local tour guide.
Read more:
Balinese Villages: An Introduction To The Traditional Villages Of Bali
Peliatan Village, Bali: Home Of The Peliatan Palace And More
Penglipuran Village: A Guide To One Of The World’s Cleanest Villages
